For those having a problem getting the new strut assembly back in. This is what I did - as with anything, be careful and do at your own risk - I took some spring compressors, and while the strut was very loosely bolted at the top with only the innermost bolt, I compressed the spring by hooking from the bottom of the metal plate the spring sits in to the highest rung on the spring I could get to. I did this on both sides. This ended up compressing the spring and the strut - shortening it a few inches, and making it easy to slip in. Having a floor jack under the lower ball joint to keep the hub level helped also. Once it was positioned, I made sure the tang lined up with the friction groove in the back, tightened up the bolts on the top, and jacked up the hub. That caused the strut to snap into place. Again, done wrong, this could be dangerous. But it went together in 10 minutes. Which beat the 3 hours I had previously spent failing.
You blocked the hardest part, getting it back in the carrier at the bottom. I can’t seem to either get the strut high enough or knuckle low enough. Did I see you put a bolt in gap to spread it?
Thank you for your feedback ! It is absolutely right, to dismantle shock absorber, you should loosen the lower fixing. We used a special oval bit end , but a standard metallic wedge would be also good. Best regards, Autodoc.
I’m stuck at the same spot u are. My tang on the strut will it go completely below the pinch bolt hole so I can’t get it in. I bought a wedge last nite hopefully that makes the gap wide enough to get it through. I hope. Complete nightmare. Snapped pinch bolt. Drilled out etc. was there some secret you used or figured out to get it completely in?
@@nicholasfitchett9345 my problem was the little fin at the end of the strut was getting bent and not going in properly. So after taking it out and straightening the fin thing and some Wd 40. And a gigantic hammer. It went in straight finally and I just forced the new bolt through and slapped a nut on it and put it all together. Then a week later drivin down the road my clutch petal decided to not come back to the proper position. Stayed on the floor. So I basically had a mental breakdown and haven’t touched it since. Don’t know how to Do master or slave hydraulic clutch. Seems easy but nothing is easy on this backwards car. Lmk how it works out and if u know how to do the master/slave clutch piston
The thrust bearing assembly with support, you can choose shock absorbers, for this we need your car details. Please contact our Customer Support team. AUTODOC
This was helpful but not as clear as some others of yours that I've watched, there are a few points to note. 1.The bolt with the hex key 1:20 is a drop link not immediately obvious on the video. Some don't have a hex key head, but most can be held with a spanner on the other side, then undone with a standard socket 2. My car doesn't use xzn 14 on the bottom, its a standard bolt, as was every car in my local breakers. A bit annoying as i bought one especially. 3. The shock absorber opener isn't necessary, take the bolt out and knock the mount off the shock absorber with a lump hammer and cold chisel 4. Getting the shock back into the mount 5:30 is difficult! This is the point the picture shrinks to give the usual like and subscribe nonsense. It took a lot of manoeuvring.
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Fancy garage all the latest tools ramp a mini which hasnt seen a uk road 🤔 How is this real life and right when the most important part happens a ad pops up if you want to do this job dont believe it is easy like mario makes it and he couldn't even be bothered to repair the lower part of the bumper the pinch bolt is the incorrect bolt for it very poor information
⚠ Attention! This video contains a mistake:
6:12 - the tightening torque is 56 Nm, not 60 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience.
Nice video, very clear. Like how you subtitle the tools and torque specs!
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
You put your ad at the absolute toughest part - getting the new strut assembly into the steering knuckle.
For those having a problem getting the new strut assembly back in. This is what I did - as with anything, be careful and do at your own risk - I took some spring compressors, and while the strut was very loosely bolted at the top with only the innermost bolt, I compressed the spring by hooking from the bottom of the metal plate the spring sits in to the highest rung on the spring I could get to. I did this on both sides. This ended up compressing the spring and the strut - shortening it a few inches, and making it easy to slip in. Having a floor jack under the lower ball joint to keep the hub level helped also. Once it was positioned, I made sure the tang lined up with the friction groove in the back, tightened up the bolts on the top, and jacked up the hub. That caused the strut to snap into place. Again, done wrong, this could be dangerous. But it went together in 10 minutes. Which beat the 3 hours I had previously spent failing.
This guys living the dream just holds his hand out and the wheel just rolls over to him. Now that’s control.
The force is strong with this one.
just followed your vid and finish my job.many thanks.mate.
Thanks for your comment. We are constantly working on improving our videos.
You blocked the hardest part, getting it back in the carrier at the bottom. I can’t seem to either get the strut high enough or knuckle low enough. Did I see you put a bolt in gap to spread it?
Thank you for your feedback ! It is absolutely right, to dismantle shock absorber, you should loosen the lower fixing. We used a special oval bit end , but a standard metallic wedge would be also good. Best regards, Autodoc.
I’m stuck at the same spot u are. My tang on the strut will it go completely below the pinch bolt hole so I can’t get it in. I bought a wedge last nite hopefully that makes the gap wide enough to get it through. I hope. Complete nightmare. Snapped pinch bolt. Drilled out etc. was there some secret you used or figured out to get it completely in?
@@judd0112 did anyone figure this out? Got the old one out, can't get new one in.
@@nicholasfitchett9345 my problem was the little fin at the end of the strut was getting bent and not going in properly. So after taking it out and straightening the fin thing and some Wd 40. And a gigantic hammer. It went in straight finally and I just forced the new bolt through and slapped a nut on it and put it all together. Then a week later drivin down the road my clutch petal decided to not come back to the proper position. Stayed on the floor. So I basically had a mental breakdown and haven’t touched it since. Don’t know how to Do master or slave hydraulic clutch. Seems easy but nothing is easy on this backwards car. Lmk how it works out and if u know how to do the master/slave clutch piston
Nice concise video, however you should add torque specs.
Thank you for your comment, we will certainly take into account your wishes in the following videos.
AUTODOC!
Why is Hydraulic transmission Jack listed under required tools?
It should also say 2 post lift then. If working without lift it would be your trolley jack to support arm.
I broke my pinch bolt tighting up can I drill it out and put just a nut and bolt back through ??
It’s difficult to say anything without proper diagnostics; we recommend contacting a car service center.
It's a good idea to tell people to be very careful spraying WD40 and copper grease near the brake disc.
You are absolutely right. It is recommended very carefully spray copper grease so as not to get on the work surface.
AUTODOC
The control arm bushings in that mini are blown
As if we.ve all got a spring compressor like that!@
Buy a complete strut. Same price most of the time
support bearing does not belong to the 1st generation mini one. finding shock absorbers is very difficult
The thrust bearing assembly with support, you can choose shock absorbers, for this we need your car details.
Please contact our Customer Support team.
AUTODOC
have you found shock absorbers
@@pleasepassthejam I replaced the newer generation shock absorbers and support bearings
This was helpful but not as clear as some others of yours that I've watched, there are a few points to note.
1.The bolt with the hex key 1:20 is a drop link not immediately obvious on the video. Some don't have a hex key head, but most can be held with a spanner on the other side, then undone with a standard socket
2. My car doesn't use xzn 14 on the bottom, its a standard bolt, as was every car in my local breakers. A bit annoying as i bought one especially.
3. The shock absorber opener isn't necessary, take the bolt out and knock the mount off the shock absorber with a lump hammer and cold chisel
4. Getting the shock back into the mount 5:30 is difficult! This is the point the picture shrinks to give the usual like and subscribe nonsense. It took a lot of manoeuvring.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for our viewers.
Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, write us in the comments 💬
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► How to replace air filter on MINI COOPER 1 - ruclips.net/video/CC4ln38KB-o/видео.html
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is not working in india
Thank you for your feedback! Could you specify, what do you mean ? Best regards, Autodoc.
move country
Why place an advertisement right over the most important part of the video where the strut is being installed?
Thanks for the clarification, we'll think about what we can do with this in new videos.
Fancy garage all the latest tools ramp a mini which hasnt seen a uk road 🤔
How is this real life and right when the most important part happens a ad pops up if you want to do this job dont believe it is easy like mario makes it and he couldn't even be bothered to repair the lower part of the bumper the pinch bolt is the incorrect bolt for it very poor information